Content of the material
- Under the Hood — Install an oven range hood to upgrade your kitchens exhaust system
- 10. Are you all set up for makeup air?
- 14. For downdraft range hoods: Double-check your cabinets and countertop
- Range Hood Installation Considerations
- Power supply:
- Range Hood Use and Maintenance Tips
- Will Liquid Nails adhesive hold up a range hood instead of screws?
- Steps for Installing a Range Vent Hood
Under the Hood — Install an oven range hood to upgrade your kitchens exhaust system
When the Vendettis decided to upgrade their kitchen, one key improvement they chose was to install a commercial-style range hood. Not only would a stainless steel range hood add the flare of a gourmet kitchen, it would also open the room for better sight lines to the windows and adjoining living areas. As an added bonus, the new hood design would offer better airflow to remove cooking steam and odors from the house.
If you are building a new kitchen or planning a remodel using this style of range hood, make sure the wall surface and power supply are already set up. However, if you are removing an existing range hood and the wall cabinets on which it is mounted, you have a little more work ahead of you.
Most of the storage space above the Vendettis’ existing cabinet-mounted hood was taken up by the ducting. They figured they could compensate for any lost storage from the removal of the adjacent wall cabinets by installing some stainless steel shelves, which would provide functional storage while adding to the commercial feel of the kitchen.
Step 1: Prepare for this industrial-inspired range hood by removing any wall cabinets that are located above the range. Some homeowners compensate for the lost cabinet storage by installing open shelves and racks near the range hood.
Step 2: Remove the range hood parts from the packaging and position the mounting bracket to get a measurement from the bottom of the appliance to the bracket.
Step 3: Align the chase pieces for a measurement to make sure they will reach the ceiling at the elevation you choose to mount the hood.
Step 4: Measure and mark the elevation of the range hood mounting plate. Pay attention to the elevation suggestions in the instructions, because this will affect the performance of the hood and how well it removes steam, and heaven forbid, smoke from the cook top area.
Step 5: Use a level to mark plumb lines where the duct pipe and hood chase will be located. For our install, this also determined the location of the required outlet.
Step 6: Use a compass to lay out where the duct must be cut to go through the ceiling. There is not much room within the hood chase so keep the duct close to the wall.
Step 7: Cut out the opening for the hood duct using a small wallboard saw.
Step 8: Position the mounting bracket and mark the mounting bracket screw locations.
Step 9: If you are able to hit a stud with only one screw, use a wall anchor on the other side of the bracket. Note: If you cannot anchor the bracket into a stud with at least one screw DO NOT install the hood using only wall anchors. You will need to open up the wall and install a backer board.
Step 10: Anchor the bracket to the wall.
Step 11: Hang the range hood on the bracket.
Step 12: Use a level to ensure the hood is positioned properly.
Step 13: After marking mounting locations and adding any needed wall anchors, re-hang the hood and fasten it through the back at the supplied screw holes. Note: You may need to drill a hole or two at your stud locations to make sure you’re fastening to solid backing.
Step 14: Assemble the hood chase mounting brackets as necessary. Test these brackets to see how they fit.
Step 15: Install the hood chase mounting brackets between the chase layout marks and at the right elevation to the ceiling.
Step 16: Extend a section of duct pipe into the ceiling opening and down onto the duct flange of the range hood.
Step 17: Go into the attic space and complete the exhaust duct install. The range hood should be vented out to a roof vent. The range hood’s main job is to remove steam from the kitchen and this steam must be vented from the attic area. Avoid any low spots in the duct work where steam can condense into water and accumulate in the duct.
Step 18: Wrap all duct connections with heat-resistant tape rather than standard duct tape.
Step 19: Seal the duct to the range hood with heat-resistant duct tape.
Step 20: Remove the protective wrap from the hood chase at the locations where the parts overlap. It’s a good idea to leave the wrap on as long possible to protect the finish during the install.
Step 21: Assemble the sections of the hood chase so the length matches the distance from the range hood to the ceiling.
Step 22: Position the hood chase over the duct work.
Step 23: Attach the hood chase to the brackets.
Step 24: Remove the protective wrap from the installed range hood.
Step 25: Install the filters according to the instructions.
Step 26: The completed kitchen features generous open spaces above the cook top area.
SIDE NOTE 1
Range Hood Remodel
To prepare an existing kitchen where cabinets need to be removed means you will need to shut off the power to the old range hood, as well as to the cook top, before covering the cook top and counter with protective cardboard or drop cloths.
Disconnect and remove the existing range hood. Cutting the caulk and removing any cabinet scribe molding will help minimize the wall damage.
Make sure you remove any screws that attach the wall cabinets to the adjoining cabinet face-frames or boxes. Get some help before removing the screws that hold the cabinets to the wall.
Find out from the range hood instructions where the power source needs to be. If the new range hood comes with a plug-in cord that requires a receptacle, you will need to provide this as well.
Make all wall repairs and paint the surface before beginning your range hood install.
SIDE NOTE 2
Installing an outlet for the range hood
Some appliances require an outlet for installation. If your old range hood was “hard-wired” you may need to install a remodel j-box for the outlet.
Lay out this box within the chase area, but to one side, so the duct will clear when everything is assembled.
Use a small wallboard saw to cut out for the outlet junction box.
Thread the wire from its original location out through the new hole in the drywall, through one of the holes in the back of the j-box.
Position the j-box in the wall and anchor it using the supplied fastening system.
Trim and strip the wire ends.
Attach the wires to the outlet—black wire to the gold-colored screw, white wire to the silver-colored screw.
Fold the wire into place as you position the outlet in the box. Attach the outlet to the box with the screws, which should still be attached to the outlet.
Install the cover plate. Flip the breaker back on. Done.
10. Are you all set up for makeup air?
Check in with your HVAC contractor on this point. Sometimes when you’re removing dirty air from your house via your kitchen ventilation system, you need to replace it with clean air from another source to keep your home’s air pressure balanced. In that case, you need a makeup-air-compliant range hood.
Pro Tip: It will say on your permit if you need a makeup-air-compliant hood. Triple-check your permit and your invoice to be sure the hood you picked out will work.
14. For downdraft range hoods: Double-check your cabinets and countertop
Downdraft range hoods are a great option for islands. They rise up out of a covered cutout in your countertop behind your cooktop, and disappear when you’re not cooking. That gives you a clear view and an optimal space for entertaining.
They do, however, require a few extra steps to prepare. In addition to checking that you’ve got the right dimensions and built the right foundation for your system (whether it vents out or is recirculating), you need to:
- Make sure you’ve alotted enough space on your countertop for both your cooktop and the downdraft hood to fit.
- Confirm you’ve got enough space in the kitchen cabinets underneath your cooktop for the downdraft components to fit.
- Know the electrical and duct connections in the cabinet are good to go.
We recommend consulting with your contractor to review the specs and make sure everything’s in order.
That wraps up our article on installing a range hood if ductwork doesn’t exist. Whether you are installing a ducted or ductless range hood, hopefully this helped you complete the installation smoothly.If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to call us and talk to one of our customer service agents or technicians at (877) 901 – 5530.If you’re interested in learning more about range hoods and range hood installation, check out more of our articles below.
Range Hood Installation Considerations
If you’re a handy do-it-yourselfer, it’s relatively simple to switch out an existing range hood with a newer model. Moving a range hood’s location during a kitchen renovation or installing one for the first time, however, will require some accommodations.
The standard width of a range hood is 30 inches (matching the width of a standard range), although wider wall-mounted and suspended island models are also available for custom kitchen designs.
For microwave-hood combinations, the bottom of the cabinet above the range should be at least 30 inches above the cooking surface to leave room for the installation. Fortunately, many contractors install this cabinet configuration in new homes for just that reason. The 30-inch distance is also the preferred upper-cabinet height for a range hood without a microwave, although individual models may have different requirements; once you’ve picked a keeper, read and follow the manufacturer’s recommended height specifications.
If you’ve chosen a combination model, you must have an electrical outlet in the cabinet above the unit in order to power the fan motor and microwave. While it’s not required by building code, many new-home contractors will go ahead and install that designated outlet on a separate 15 or 20 amp circuit with enough juice to run a microwave. If you’re installing a hood for the first time and there’s no nearby outlet, an electrician must install one near the location before you can proceed. The specs on your unit will indicate its power needs. Not all simple range hoods draw enough power to necessitate a designated outlet, but microwave-hood combinations should have their own circuit.
Both single hoods and microwave-hood combination units come with templates that mark exactly where to predrill or cut holes for screws, a power supply, and vent. The template will also show you where to attach the bracket that supports a hood combo on an exterior wall. If you are installing an outside-venting range hood, but you’re not mounting it on an exterior wall, the model you select should have the option of upward venting, as you’ll have to run the ducting through the ceiling.
Range Hood Use and Maintenance Tips
- Wash the metal filter at least once a month in hot water and detergent. Rinse in cold water and let it completely dry before re-installation.
- Filters should always be installed in the same direction. Look for imprinted arrows or instructions on the filter.
- Clean the range hood with a sponge, warm water, and a mild detergent. Never use abrasive cleaners.
- Most range hood fans are permanently lubricated and do not need re-oiling. However, consult the instructions to see if any lubrication is required.
- Regularly clean inside of the duct to remove grease and other debris that may catch fire.
Will Liquid Nails adhesive hold up a range hood instead of screws?
No, range hoods must be secured to studs with screws for the best support. Small hoods weigh around 30 pounds and larger hoods can get up to 100+ pounds. Liquid Nails adhesive is not strong enough to handle the weight of a range hood.
Steps for Installing a Range Vent Hood
- Use a 6-inch-diameter hole saw to cut a hole through the interior wall surface, directly above the range. Collect the dust with wet/dry vacuum while cutting the hole.
- If the hole saw can’t cut through the interior wall in one pass, stop cutting, remove the plaster from the hole, and continue drilling.
- If necessary, use a multi-tool to cut wood lath from the 6-inch hole.
- Replace the hole saw with a ¼-inch-diameter bit and drill through the backside of the wall sheathing to the outdoors.
- From outside, use the 6-inch hole saw to cut through the siding and wall sheathing.
- Make a mounting plate by cutting 6-inch-diameter hole through a piece of PVC trim.
- Hold the PVC plate against the house siding, and trace around it with a pencil.
- Use an angle grinder to cut the siding along the pencil lines.
- Apply bead of silicone adhesive around the hole in wall. Press the PVC mounting plate tight to the wall, and secure with screws.
- Use duct tape to attach a 6-inch-diameter elbow to the vent cap.
- From outside, slide the vent cap into the hole and secure it to the mounting plate with self-tapping screws.
- From inside the kitchen, slide an elbow through hole and onto vent cap elbow. Secure with duct tape.
- Screw the vent-hood mounting brackets to kitchen wall; be sure to drive the screws into wall studs.
- Slide the vent hood into the brackets and secure with screws driven into wall studs.
- Make the electrical connections to provide power to the vent hood’s light and exhaust fan.
- Install the vertical cover to conceal the exposed ductwork.
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